All voyages are voyages
of discovery; all voyages are dangerous. Even in these days when cruise liners are
thought of as little more than floating hotels, disaster sometimes strikes. Departing
on a voyage is already a little death, a farewell to loved ones who may never
be seen again, either because of the dangers of the passage or because the travellers
mean never to return. To the oppressed and poor of Europe in the nineteenth
century, America seemed a promised land, a western paradise of plenty and
equality. But they had to leave behind all that was familiar if they were to
make a better life across the sea. As a traditional Irish emigrant ballad The
Green Fields of Canada says:
Oh my father is old and my mother’s quite feeble
To leave their own country it grieves their hearts sore:
The tears in great drops down their cheeks they are rolling
To think they must die upon some foreign shore.
But what matter to me where my bones may be buried
If in peace and contentment I can spend my life?
Oh the green fields of Canada, they daily are blooming:
It’s there I’ll put an end to my miseries and strife.
Anyone who’s stood at the seashore and watched the sun going down over the waves may have wondered
what it would be like to seek lands beyond the sunset. Voyages have been associated
with Otherworld journeys since the days of Gilgamesh (second millennium BCE). When
his beloved friend Enkidu dies, Gilgamesh becomes afraid of death. He sets off
to the end of the world – to the mountains where the sun rises and sets – and
makes the dark journey through a tunnel called the Path of the Sun, to emerge in
a garden of jewelled trees. Here he begs the goddess Siduri for advice on how
to cross the ocean to find Uta-napishti, hero of the Flood, who was granted
immortality by the gods. Siduri tells him to find Ur-shanabi the ferryman, who
with his crew of Stone Ones can take him over the Waters of Death. The
enterprise is about as successful as most Otherworld journeys and Gilgamesh
learns the usual lesson, that death is inevitable and had better be accepted.
It’s fascinating to find the motif of the ferryman, and of the goddess in the
paradisal garden, in this four-thousand year old text. The ferryman Charon, the
Garden of the Hesperides, the island of Circe – how long has humanity been
imagining them?
Voyages and suns, and perhaps death, are hinted at in Scandinavian rock engravings dating to any
time between 1500 and 400 BCE, which show ships embellished with sun discs and
spirals. The figure above is taken from The Chariot of the Sun and other Rites and Symbols of the Northern Bronze Age by Peter Gelling and Hilda Ellis Davidson. It depicts rock art from Stora Backa, Brastad, Bohuslan, Sweden, and the authors write that the 'horizontal phallic figure' lying on his back low down in the group is 'probably to be thought of as lying on the ship immediately below him. There is a smaller figure which seems, as it were, to rise out of his body': this may be a mourner, or it may be his spirit. The entire group is a cluster of animals, men, ships and sun-wheels, large and small. The association of ships and suns is exemplified in the Egyptian
sun god Re with his two boats: the sun boat or Mandjet (Boat of Millions of
Years) which carries him from east to west across the sky accompanied by
various other deities and personifications, and the night boat, the Mesesket,
on which the god travels through the perilous underworld from west to east, to
rise again in the morning.
Push off, and sitting well in order smite
The sounding furrows; for my purpose holds
To sail beyond the sunset, and the baths
Of all the western stars, until I die.
It may be that the gulfs will wash us down:
It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles
And see the great Achilles, whom we knew…
So speaks the aged
Ulysses to his companions in Tennyson’s poem. Unwilling ‘to rust unburnished’
and die by his own hearth, he sets out for the lands beyond the sunset, home of
the heroic dead. Yet in the Odyssey, Odysseus has already sailed to the
Otherworld. Leaving the island of Circe he reaches the shores of Hades and the
groves of Persephone, fringed with black poplars, where he encounters many
spirits of the dead, including his own mother whom he vainly tries to embrace:
…Three times
I started towards her, and my heart was urgent to hold her,
and three times she fluttered out of my hands like a shadow
or a dream, and the sorrow sharpened at the heart within me.
The Odyssey of Homer,
tr. Richmond Lattimore, Harper & Row 1965
In this beautiful red-figure oil jar, we see Charon the ferryman welcoming the soul of a young man into his ferry. Charon gently extends his hand towards a fluttering soul as delicate as a mayfly. It is an extraordinarily tender gesture.
On his death, the Norse
god Baldr is laid by the other gods on a pyre in his ship Ringhorn, which is set
alight and pushed out to sea. The Old English poem Beowulf tells how the
hero-king Scyld Shefing was laid with many treasures in ‘a boat with a ringed
neck’ and sent to sea, where –
Men
under heaven’s
shifting
skies, though skilled in counsel,
cannot
say surely who unshipped that cargo.
Beowulf, tr. Michael Alexander, Penguin
1973
Ship burials occur all
over the world (for more information visit this link) – throughout all of Europe, Asia and South East Asia. In
some cases people were buried in boats or in boat-shaped coffins, while others
in burials which reference a sea-journey, such as this beautiful burial jar –
the ‘Manunggul Jar’ – found in the Philippines’ Tabon Caves, and dated 890-710
BCE:
The boatman […] is steering rather than paddling the “ship”. The
mast of the boat was not recovered. Both figures appear to be wearing bands
tied over the crowns of their heads and under their jaws; a pattern still found
in burial practices among the indigenous peoples in the Southern Philippines.
The manner in which the hands of the front figure are folded across the chest
is also a widespread practice in the islands when arranging the corpse.
The Tabon Caves, Robert B
Fox, Manila: National Museum, 1970
In
Northern Europe, high-status people were sometimes buried in their ships, like the king or warrior laid to rest in the East Anglian Sutton Hoo ship burial,
circa 700 CE, and the two women in the famous Norwegian ‘Oseberg ship’, thought
to have been buried in or after 834 CE.
The marvellous Welsh poem
Prieddeu Annwfn or ‘The Spoils of
Annwfn’ (dated by linguistic evidence to around 900 CE) tells of a raid by
Arthur in his ship Prydwen on the Welsh underworld, Annwfn. Most of the eight
stanzas end with a variation on the recurrent line: ‘Except seven, none
returned’. By ordinary standards the expedition sounds disastrous, but this is
no ordinary poem. Fateful, gloomy, mysterious, we gain a vision of a venture by
sea to an Otherworld mound or island
where a pearl-rimmed cauldron full of the magical life-giving mead of poetry is
guarded in a four-peaked glass fortress with a strong door.
The hero Bran (keeper
of another magical cauldron which restores the dead to life) is the subject of
one of the traditional Old Irish voyage tales known as immrama, in which a hero or saint sets out for an Otherworld,
stopping at numerous fantastic or miraculous islands along the way. These islands
have a more sunlit appeal than that of Annwfn: Bran is invited by a mysterious
woman to seek for the beautiful Emain
Ablach or ‘Isle of Women’ where there is peace and plenty and no one is
ever sick or dies. He puts to sea with twenty-seven companions and three curraghs
– nine men in each boat. Eventually reaching the island, Bran’s boat is drawn
into port by a ball of magical thread which the queen tosses to him. Each man
is paired with a beautiful woman, Bran sharing the bed of the queen, and there they remain, unaware how much time is passing in the real world,
until Nechtan son of Collbran becomes homesick and Bran resolves to return home.
The queen warns against it, and especially against setting foot on land. When they reach Ireland, so many years have passed that Bran’s name is an ancient legend, and when Nechtan leaps out of the curragh he crumbles
to dust. Seeing this, Bran and his companions sail away (presumably back to the
Island of Women) and never return.
The hero Maelduin's is a longer voyage and a
happier homecoming: he's advised by a hermit that he will return home only once he has forgiven his father’s murderer. This he finally does, and makes safe
landfall. But on the long voyage he and his companions see such wonders as the
Isle of Ants ‘every one of them the size of a foal’; an island
where demon riders run a giant horse race; an island of a miraculous apple tree
whose fruit satisfy the whole crew for ‘forty nights’; an island of fiery pigs, an island of a little cat; an
island where giant smiths strike away on anvils and hurl a huge lump of red-hot
iron after the boat (surely a volcanic eruption?) so that ‘the whole of the sea
boiled up’. Here’s a lovely passage:
The Silver-Meshed Net
They went on then till they found a great silver pillar;
four sides it had, and the width of each of the sides was two strokes of an
oar; and there was not one sod of earth about it, but only the endless ocean;
and they could not see what way it was below, and they could not see what way
the top of it was because of its height. There was a silver net from the top of
it that spread out a long way on every side, and the curragh went under sail
through a mesh of that net.
Diuran, one of
Maeldune’s companions, strikes the net with his spear to obtain a piece:
“Do not destroy the net,” said Maeldune, “for we are
looking at the work of great men.” “It
is for the praise of God’s name I am doing it,” said Diuran, “The way my story
will be better believed; and it is to the altar of Ardmacha I will give this
mesh of the net if I get back to Ireland.” Two ounces and a half now was the
weight when it was measured after in Ardmacha. They heard then a voice from the
top of the pillar very loud and clear, but they did not know in what strange
language it was speaking or what word it said.
The Voyage of Maeldune,
‘A Book of Saint and Wonders’, tr. Lady Gregory, Dun Emer Press 1906
I love the way these
stories delight in the marvellous inventions of God (or the poet) and the wondrous
things men find when they set out to cross the illimitable sea.
Stationed on the
western edge of Northern Europe, the Irish were well positioned to wonder what
might be beyond the watery horizon. Following a dream of ‘a beautiful island
with angels serving upon it,’ the 6th century Saint Brendan set off
into the Atlantic in search of Paradise. In a hide boat, a curragh, with twelve
companions he spent years wandering the ocean from one marvellous island to
another, including a landing upon the back of an amiable giant fish which
allowed him to celebrate Easter there. All nature is included in Brendan’s Christianity:
when he says Mass, even the fishes attend ‘and came around the
ship in a heap, so that they could hardly see the water for fishes. But when
the mass was ended each one of them turned himself and swam away, and they saw
them no more.’
After years of sailing,
and coming near the borders of a hell of ice and fire which sounds suspiciously
like Iceland, Brendan and his companions reached the Land of Promise, the
blessed shore.
…clear and lightsome, and the trees full of fruit on every
bough… and the air neither hot nor cold but always one way, and the delight
they found there could never be told. Then they came to a river that they could
not cross but they could see beyond it the country that had no bounds to its
beauty.
The Voyage of Brendan,
‘A Book of Saint and Wonders’, tr. Lady Gregory, Dun Emer Press, 1906
The immrama combine
delight and discovery as well as spiritual journeys. And in fact it was the practice
of many early monks to set up their cells on remote islands such as the Arans. Saint Cuthbert on Inner Farne would pray all night, standing in the
sea. Was it only for the solitude, or was the sea crossing itself a holy act
which could bring the traveller to the shore of another world? Even before Christianity,
were islands – liminally placed between earth and sea, like Lindisfarne, Iona,
St Michael’s Mount – already considered holy? And it's worth considering that the rite of baptism is a
passing through water to symbolic new life.
The age-old tradition
of crossing water to the otherworld recurs in Thomas Malory's Le Morte D’Arthur when Arthur is taken away in a barge to the Isle
of Avalon ‘to heal him of his grievous wound’. And he is not the only character to make such a
post-mortem or near-post-mortem voyage: the Fair Maid of Astolat, dead Elaine, drifts
down the Thames to Westminster in her black barge.
During the quest for the
Holy Grail, Sir Percival’s sister dies, having given a dish of her blood in order to heal
a lady. Perceval lays his sister’s body...
in a barge, and covered it with black silk; and so the wind
arose, and drove the barge from land, and all the knights beheld it till it was
out of their sight.
Soon after (in Book
XVII Chapter 13), Lancelot is woken from sleep by a visionary voice which
commands:
‘Lancelot, arise up and take thine armour, and enter into
the first ship that thou shalt find’. And when he heard these words he start up
and saw a great clearness about him. And then he lift up his hand and blessed
him, and took his arms and made him ready; and so by adventure he came by a
strand and found a ship the which was without sail or oar.
And as soon as he was within that ship
there felt he the most sweetness that he ever felt, and he was fulfilled with
all thing that he thought on or desired.
Then he said, ‘Fair sweet Father, Jesu Christ, I wot not in what joy I
am, for this joy passeth all earthly joys that ever I was in.’
And so in this joy he laid him down… and
slept till day. And when he awoke he found there a fair bed, and therein lying
a gentlewoman dead, the which was Sir Perceval’s sister.
This unsteerable ship
of the dead conveys Lancelot to a castle where he will encounter that ultimate
symbol of unknowable holiness, the Grail. Putting to sea in a boat without sail
or oars – or for that matter in an overloaded inflatable run by traffickers in
the middle of one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes – is to cast yourself upon
the guidance of God. Such faith must be in the hearts of many of the brave, desperate
people we call migrants.
In ballads too, as in
life, to sail the sea is to face danger and possible death. The eponymous Wife
of Usher’s Well sends her three sons ‘to sail upon the sea’. Barely three weeks
later the news comes that they’ve drowned and the grieving mother tries to
bring them back by cursing the elements that caused their death:
“I wish the winds may never cease
Nor fashes [disturbances]
in the flood
Till my three sons come hame to me
In earthly flesh and blood.”
The Wife of Usher’s
Well, Oxford Book of Ballads, 1969
So they do come home,
at Martinmas, the liminal time between autumn and winter ‘when nights are long
and mirk’. But their hats are made of the birch bark that grows on the trees of
Paradise, and they can stay only one night.
‘I’ll set sail of
silver and I’ll steer towards the sun’, a girl threatens in the folk song As
Sylvie Was Walking, for then ‘my false love will weep for me after I’m gone.’ As
for the foolish lady who betrays her lover and runs away to sea with a
plausible suitor who has promised to show her ‘where the white lilies grow/On the
banks of Italie’ – he turns out to be The Daemon Lover of the title, who halfway over conjures up a storm to sink the ship, crying, ‘I’ll show you where the white lilies
grow/At the bottom of the sea!’
Over countless millennia
voyage tales have explored the marvels of life and the mystery of death. We humans
have always embarked upon hopeful voyages, seeking a new world, a better life, a
better self. But the tales acknowledge that we cannot always be in control. After
the fall of Troy, Odysseus wanted to go home, but instead he spent ten long
years wandering the Mediterranean, exposed to storms, shipwrecks and the whims
of the gods. Still, he made it in the end despite the odds. Death is a journey
we’re all going to take, but maybe not yet, not this time, although the
ferryman is always waiting. One day we will
leave our friends behind, set sail of silver, steer for the sun and cross
the ocean to the undiscovered country from whose bourne no traveller returns.
One day… one day.
Picture credits
'The Last of England' - by Ford Madox Ford 1852 Wikipedia
Figure from 'The Chariot of the Sun' - by Peter Gelling & Hilde Ellis Davidson, Aldine, 1972
Red-figure oil jar attributed to the 'Tymbos painter', 500-450 BCE Ashmoleon Musuem Oxford Photo by Carole Raddato Wikimedia
The Fair Maid of Astolat - by Sophie Anderson, 1870 Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool Wikimedia
The Wife of Usher's Well - by H.M. Brock 1934
Petroglyph - 'The Chariot of the Sun' - by Peter Gelling & Hilde Ellis Davidson, Aldine, 1972